If summer is the farmers market's loud season, fall is its wise one.

Asheville's farmers markets are deep in their best weeks right now, and the harvest tables prove it.

Apples arrive by the crate from the orchards nearby, joined by winter squash, sweet potatoes, hardy greens, late peppers and more pumpkin varieties than seems strictly necessary.

The mountain growing season saves some of its finest work for the cool finish.

The weekly rhythm is easy to learn.

Saturday mornings are the main event, with busy markets both downtown and on the north side drawing the biggest vendor lineups of the week.

Midweek shoppers have their own circuit, with neighborhood tailgate markets on the west side and in the River Arts District keeping the fridge stocked between weekends.

Each market has its own personality, and finding yours is half the fun.

Shopping a tailgate market well is a learnable skill.

Arrive early for selection or late for deals, and bring small bills even though most vendors now take cards.

Walk the full loop once before buying anything, because the second stall of tomatoes is never the last.

Ask growers what to do with the vegetable you do not recognize — mountain farmers are generous with recipes, and the ugliest produce is usually the best-tasting.

Fall also brings the makers out in force.

Alongside the produce you will find mountain honey, fresh bread, pastured eggs, cheeses, hot sauces and the first whispers of holiday craft tables.

A market basket in November quietly becomes a gift list.

There is a practical argument under all the charm.

Dollars spent at a tailgate stay in these counties, keep farmland farmed, and buy food that was picked this week rather than shipped this month.

Flavor is just the bribe that makes the economics delicious.

As the calendar turns, watch for season finales and holiday market dates — several markets shift schedules or move indoors as winter settles in.

Our directory keeps tabs on the fresh-and-in-season scene year-round.

Fall in the mountains tastes like apples, squash and wood smoke.

Go taste it while the tables are full.